Something Oprah Can't Do

Oprah doesn’t surf. Thank God. It really seems to be the only place that her world domination has yet to reach. 

Lack of surfing abilities aside, what Oprah has done in recent decades should be considered legendary. Against all odds she has overcome social prejudices to provide a voice for women and African Americans. She has bridged gaps and united brilliant minds. She has the power to create best selling authors overnight. And still, Oprah doesn’t surf.

Surfing almost seems to be one of the last areas of celebrity that “The Big O” has failed to infiltrate. Countless celebs: Matt McConaughey, Cameron Diaz, Barack Obama just to name a few have fallen in love with wave riding.

Cameron Diaz Gettin Wet

 Most surfers will attest that surfing is the closest way to interact with nature. The spirituality associated with surfing seems to be exactly what Oprah wants to convey both on her television show and in her O Magazine.  She’s constantly discussing ways to relieve stress and to balance daily tasks. She seems to appeal to the soul, just as waves appeal to the souls of surfers.

So why is Oprah holding off?

For one, she’s old. There are plenty of surfers out there that have decades on her age of 56, but keep in mind there’s a huge difference between

continuing to surf and learning. First timers know of the punishment.  Often times cold water, unforgiving currents, and a general lack of balance can turn a harmless day at the beach into a lifelong nightmare.

Oprah is not used to failure.
Surfing might be a blunder waiting to happen. Hypothetically speaking she hosts a "learn how to surf" special. She tries and she tries. She has all the right equipment and proper instruction, and yet, she doesn't stand up. Curious to wonder if pride could play a possible role. For a woman who has seemingly conquered the female world (from a guy's perspective: ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE) Oprah might be scared at not being able to do something. Everything she touches turns platinum, but where is this platinum surfboard?

Can you see Oprah becoming suddenly addicted to chasing swells or shaping surfboards? Maybe for publicity. Maybe to hang out with her "super cool" celeb friends, but Oprah just doesn't feel like a surfer.

Without a doubt before her television career comes to an end in May of next year, Oprah needs to assert her dominance over the silly  Wet Dream surfing blog by hosting a “Learn how to surf” special where she flies her entire audience to Hawaii to get private surf lessons from Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton. If nothing else it would be pretty funny and some lucky audience member might get a platinum surfboard out of it.

P-Rock Answers Questions About Indonesia

Hello Everyone. I hope your week was as action packed as Kelly Slater’s. The 38 year old surfing legend won his 10th Association of Surfing Professionals world title at the Rip Curl Search Pro in Puerto Rico. Congrats Kelly. For more info click Here.

So the Wet Dream has conducted its first interview. Sorry I didn’t get Kelly Slater, or even someone famous. Instead I am pleased to announce that The Wet Dream’s first ever interviewee is none other than Paul Costenello from Long Island, New York. A real native. Paul recently traveled to the Far East to check out the insaneness of Indonesia. So I sat down with Paul to ask him a few questions, and he really opens up about his: travels, boards, life, but most importantly his love of naked Indonesian boys.

TWD: So Paul, you don’t mind if I call you P-Rock do you?

Paul: Well yes, I actually do mind, I prefer Paul.

TWD: You got it P-Rock. So let’s get down to it. You just Got back from a surfing adventure in Indonesia. Was it paradise? Or was it paradise?

Paul: Well, it was Paradise. And yes, I did just get back from Indo. Specifically several friends and I went through this company that does boat charters to rarely surfed little dream point breaks, it’s unreal.

TWD: So where exactly were you guys?

Paul: Specifically we were in the Mentawais Islands in Sumatra. The surf was incredible. Every morning we would taxi out into these deserted lineups with glassy overhead barrels. Rights and Lefts and fast sections and slow sections.

TWD: That’s not what I need to hear right now.

Paul: I know, sorry.

TWD: So what did you enjoy about the Indonesian Culture?

Paul: Well for one Indonesians are an extremely hospitable culture. A lot of the outer islands have been heavily damaged from recent hurricanes and tsunamis, but their happiness has not faded. For people with few possessions and simple lives they take joys in the smallest things in life. It was incredible when we’d go ashore and dozens of half naked Indonesian children would swarm us. They see a fair amount of surfers because of how the tours work, and they love em’. They scream at us asking us to “surf!” They love the water and they love surfing. That was a really beautiful part of the trip for me.

TWD: That’s really touching.

Paul: I guess I’m a teddy Bear.

TWD: So what was your board selection like for the trip?

Paul: You know, I actually felt under-prepared. I brought three boards with me, the longest being a 6’3” thruster. I would have been happier with something even bigger because the surf was that large. I also had a 5’8” fish and a 6’0” quad fin thing. Both are awesome boards, but for the $300 I spent to send them, it wasn’t worth it.

TWD: Paul, being this super experienced traveler that you now are, are you still going to be ripping up the east coast this winter? Or has the 80 degree water of the South Pacific softened you into a frail little birdie?

Paul: Of course I’ll still be surfing on the East Coast. Granted it will be much harder to put on my wetsuit and booties, but my love of surfing comes first, my body second.

Map of Mentawai Islands

So when is the Best time to go to Indonesia? According to The WaterWays Surf Adventure Website, “Like with so many questions the answer is: “It depends.”  It depends on your desires.  If you want big surf with favorable trades, May to September is probably best.  If you want to experience some glassy conditions and get a few more rights and less people (but possibly sacrifice some swell size) March/April or late Sept/Oct is probably best.  If you don’t mind rain but good surface conditions and smaller, clean surf with nobody else around: give the off season a try, from November to February.”

What you should expect.

 

 

 

 

My thanks to Paul for sharing his epic journey. I’ll definitely be dreaming of Indonesian surf tonight.

Andy Irons is Surfing Waves in the Sky

The sport of surfing has been in a state of mourning since last Tuesday.  Three-time ASP world champion Andy Irons tragically passed away in his Dallas hotel room. He was 32.
Sources close to the Hawaiian native report the cause of death to be Dengue Fever.

The Wet Dream would like to take this time to honor Andy, not only for his great surfing accomplishments, which included his 20 elite tour victories, four Triple Crown of Surfing Titles, and the aforementioned three consecutive ASP World Titles, but also for his role as an ambassador to the surfing community.

Countless interviews and surf movie segments demonstrate his truly remarkable character.  A man that was not afraid to go through life. A man whom lived every day to promote the sport of surfing and to live a lifestyle that reflected his caring personality and love for others. 

Andy Irons will forever be immortalized as a role Model to surfing’s youth.  His uncanny style and near perfect surfing abilities are exactly what every grom in the water is trying to emulate. 
What has always struck a personal chord, at least for me, were Andy’s sense of calmness and the way in which he carried himself.

I don’t know if it’s cliché to refer to a surfer as being chill and laid back, but the sole time that I had the honor and privilege of meeting with him, (at the former Boost Mobile Pro, Trestles, 2003) he took the time to engage me. I was just some random fan in the parking lot, but to him, I was one of those thousands of surf rats that looked up to him.  I remember him as being soft spoken but speaking with great purpose.  The entire time my eyes held his focus.  That kind of a man.  Pretty impressive for a then 20something year old with “pro surfing” as a career and probably close to several million dollars in the bank.

As the entire surfing world is reeling from the death of one of its biggest icons, us NYC surfers are still longing for that big swell, because with that swell comes that idea of stoke,  the very same stoke that Andy Irons epitomized.

90th street is 1-2 on Surfline, looks like we’ll have to keep waiting, not to mention bust out the 4mm.'s with hoods and maybe booties, its gotten cold.

A.I. paddle out

Andy Irons - I Surf Because

How to Find the Perfect Wetsuit

Ahoy Mateys,

Commodore Pruitt is pleased to announce the Fall 2010 Wetsuit Guide brought to you by the Wet Dream.
We at the Wet Dream know that buying a new wetsuit can be tricky, not to mention pricey, so we've highlited a few of our favorites. Check them out.

Oneill Wetsuits

 

Here Dreamers is Oneill's Psychofreak. Equipped with:

• Pullover internal neck seal that blocks out water for maximum performance
• Plasma seals on the wrist and ankles
• A double seal neck
• Lightweight firewall thermal insulation jersey that wicks away mositure and increases warmth
• Available in 3/2 4/3 5/4 and 7/5mm. sizes
• msrp. $295-570

Commodore's Thoughts: A great wetsuit. Really the top of the line when it comes to innovation and materials.  Oneill has pretty much dominated the neopreme game since the 1970's and although they have some of the best products out there for all forms of acquatic sports, $300-600 is a lot to pay for some stretchy rubber.

Rip Curl Wetsuits

What some call the greatest suit ever made, Rip Curl's H-Bomb literally is the bomb. Featuring built in body warmers, this wetsuit has taken the first step into the future of wetsuit design.

• Non-metallic heating element is evenly dispersed on the rear of the suit, and a high-stretch titanium lining reflects heat back to your body
• 3-setting temperature switch located at right hip customizes the warmth for changing conditions
• 2 lithium ion batteries carried in internal pockets on lower back power the heating element
• 120g batteries are positioned to promote flexibility and require a 3 hr. charge time
• Stretchy neoprene forms to your body for a flexible, comfortable fit; the H-Bomb uses the lightest, most flexible and warmest neoprene available from Rip Curl
• Soft polypropylene inner lining wicks moisture and feels comfortable against bare skin

Commodore's Thoughts: The Best.  There are no wetsuits on the markets that can even come close. That being said I would recommend checking out Rip Curl's web site for something that will serve the same functions, but will cost a tenth of the price.  I have worn Rip Curl suits my entire life, so there is a little bit of bias on my behalf, but from what I have seen Rip Curl puts out a great product and offers some great warranties.

Quiksilver Wetsuits

Hello Cypher 2, I think I love you.

Quiksilver's Cypher 2:

• 3mm Hyperstretch II Neoprene body
• 2mm Hyperstretch II Neoprene arms
• 3mm Vaporstretch mesh chest and back panels
• Inner gusset panel HFT Heating System
• GBS (glued and blindstiched) seam seal with Flexmax seal seam taping
• Cypher seal wrist and ankle cuffs
• Cyberfuse kneepads
• Hydroshield water barrier with key pocket
• Hydrowrap neck closure 

Commodore's Thoughts:
Quiksilver will always offer a great quality product within the surfing industry.  Their Wetsuits have never been quite on the same level of Oneill and Rip Curl in terms of popularity, but they truly are works of art.  Quiksilver takes time when designing new models, and that time is reflected in the number of interesting gadgets and innovations that the Cypher has to offer.  Check out the site for other cool designs such as the "cell" and "syncro."

Patagonia Wetsuits

Long renowned for its outdoor clothing Patagonia has recently released a Men and Woman's Wetsuit line. Pictured here the "R3" is a finely tuned machine.  With a little help from the Malloy Brothers, Patagonia was able to launch a wetsuit line that has since become a staple for the modern day cold water adventurer. Check out these specs...

More Environmentally Conscious
Patagonia wetsuits use the highest quality Japanese neoprene. It has a 98% closed-cell ratio, which adds dead air space and with it, warmth.R3 48° - 55°F

• Made for cold water, 3mm smooth-skin neoprene lined with chlorine-free merino wool grid lining.Features - Men's R3® Front-Zip Full Suit We use high-quality 3mm neoprene backed by a grid patterned recycled polyester/chlorine-free merino wool laminate to increase warmth by creating a larger dead air space (Patented)
• Smooth skin exterior on torso, back and hips results in greater warmth by eliminating evaporative cooling in windy conditions
• Dual neck gaskets (internal and external) keep water from flushing in• Internal silicone bar tacks reinforce cuff and ankle seams• Critical seams reinforced; all seams glued and blindstitched
• Overlapped back yoke for easy on/off
• Anatomical, PVC-free kneepads

Fabric: Torso & Back: 3mm smooth skin neoprene exterior lined with chlorine-free merino wool laminated to recycled polyester. Arms & Shoulders: 3mm nylon-faced neoprene exterior lined with chlorine-free merino wool laminated to recycled polyester.
Seat & Legs: 3mm nylon-faced neoprene exterior (with smooth skin at hips) lined with recycled polyester jersey.

Commodore's Thoughts: Perfect for the NYC surfer.  Patagonia understands adventure surfing, and let's face it, surfing NYC is advenutre surfing.

Surf Spot Break Down: Far Rockaway 90th Street

Every time I step off the subway at 90th street I’m filled with an unexplainable euphoric joy. There’s always that strong chance that Surfline has lied, the surf could be flat, but after sitting on the subway for two hours coming from the Bronx, the thought of Surfing dominates your mind.

To get to Far Rockaway Coming from Manhattan, you’re going to want to jump on the A express train downtown to Far Rockaway.  Anytime the NYC subway goes above you know its going to be a long train ride. After getting off at 90th street it’s about a 2-3 block walk to the water. 
I’ve surfed 90th street several times as well as 96th street, and all have been during hurricane swells so I don’t really know what the surfs like during non-hurricane swells.

My first trip last year was to surf Hurricane Bill. After walking up the berm at 96th street, this being my first time at Far Roc,  I was totally impressed with what Bill had to offer.  The surf, a solid 4-6 (though rather mushy, and without current) necessitated that the lifeguards on the beach not allow anyone in the water.  Now I’ve been swimming for the past 15 years so I’m not going to let some lifeguard with bleached hair and earrings tell me where and when I can swim. So I start charging out into the mediocre surf sans fins.
Immediately I hear whistling and sirens, and probably several gunshots, remember this isn’t exactly the best neighbor hood.
I guess if the surf’s over 3 ft. they don’t let swimmers in.
What’s worse I wasn’t whistled out of the water by the lifeguard who was too busy making out with his girlfriend, I was whistled out by 200-300lb. black woman wearing pants and shoes.
Needless to say her rules did not apply to me, so I headed straight back out.

Surfing is a completely different ball game.  With no restrictions anyone is free to paddle out, and I mean anyone.  Surfing the jetties at 90th street is a free for all hodge-podge usually complete with a couple of navy landing crafts sprinkled in just for fun.  At 90th street there is a left that comes in and shoots off the rocks. If you position yourself right in the perfect spot you can get some decent lefts.  Now for those regular footers there are rights, but they are usually not as consistent and you have to walk. 

The locals are pretty mellow, although this probably changes day-to-day and swell-to-swell.  From what I have seen of surfing in New York is that it is still an intimate thing.  Fellow surfers understand how hard it is to wake up early and to carry your stuff though the city, and to sit on the subways for hours, and to brave the crowds and snow…

It’s a very beautiful mutual respect...

Go get wet, if not keep dreaming.

 

Down With Christie

 

OK, So I've actually never surfed in New Jersey. 

That being said I would like to announce that the dunce of the week award goes to NJ state gov. Christopher Christie.

Now I'm sure that Chris is probably a decent human being, hell, there's a strong chance that he might have even done some good things for the state of New Jersey, but what's up with backing out of the Hudson River Tunnel Project?

Let's get past the facts. Never mind the 6,000 construction jobs. Never mind the 44,000 permanent jobs that would be created after its 2018 completion.  Frivolous in my mind. What Chris Christie and dozens of New York politicians and businessmen are failing to realize is the Hudson River Tunnel (HRT) would make it so much easier for NYC surfers to get to NJ.

After much coercion, I would be able to borrow one of my friends' cars, load up my gear and not have to spend two hours in traffic. JUST TO LEAVE THE CITY. I mean, I'm sure this would help other people out too. So if you are as outraged as I, Chris can be reached at:

Office of the Governor
PO Box 001
Trenton, NJ 08625
609-292-6000

I guess they should work on getting email before a $13,000,0000,000,000,000,000 tunnel.





Breathe it in. The dirty Jerz.
Long Branch, NJ


Surf ya later